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I was prehaps on the 'edge' of carding for a while, and can give you an example at least. I dumped all of the IE passwords from a fairly large botnet into a database, searched for admin. First site login i try, there's a plaintext database of like 100 customers info, CC and cvv2.I don't know how Blizzur obtains his cards but i think nearly all people are not targeting specific servers, just trying to find any that are vulnerable. So keep everything updated. Exploits of eCommerce applications used to look quite often to me, maybe it's changed or maybe not.
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I remember other things like mail clients, anything easy you can search in google etc.The risks are what you make it. You could lay very low in carding and make less money but safe. Or, you could aim for higher amounts of money but risk more. If you know how to 'protect your ass' on the internet, you should be pretty safe. But then again, It's all up to what level you want to take it to.I started of in 2006 when I got in contact with a guy who were already a carder. I started to get interested and read more and more about it on forums.
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I started off reading guides and tutorials on these forums but after a while I became a selflearner.There are few people around me who knows what I'm doing, they don't know how much I make and other things though. These people are people I trust and have known since I was a kid.If I wouldn't get into the carding scene, I would probably be a regular 9 to 5 worker working on a local gas station or a McDonalds. Although I'm still working on the side as a cover up, and to be honest, honest money feels best in your pocket.It did in the beginning, I got a bad conscience for everytime I stole money. But since this later become an every day thing for me, I don't feel nothing about it anymore. I hope you don't see me as an ice cold thief, but it just became like that after a while.I don't think so.
My personal relationships are actually very good and healthy. I meet friends almost every day and hang out on friday nights etc. I also have a good contact with my parents.Online fraud is the only thing I'm doing. I dont have the guts to rob people physically. My intentions are not to harm anyone, just taking a piece of what they'll get back from the bank anyways. So practically, the only one losing on me is Banks and stores.
No individuals. Honest money feels best in your pocketFunny that you would say that. I mean, you said yourself, you are past the initial pangs of conscience etc.the only one losing on me is Banks and stores. No individuals.That is a bit of a rationalization, right? I mean, you add cost to the system, and eventually, it is passed to the individuals.
And how about the hassle that a person has to go through to just deal with fraud? And there are those who don't even notice the fraudulent activity, and do end up paying.
So, I've decided to take my time and actually contribute to something I might care about in the future and ended up writting an instore carding tutorial for one of my friends. Since I've already started I decided to finish it and post it here. Not looking for any reward, just wanted to share what I have writen.This tutorial is just to start you off with instore carding, most basics and a few tips.Before we start, I'd like to analyze carding terms I will use throughout this tutorial.1. DumpsDumps are tracks 1 & 2 or only track2, no adress, no name, no nothing. Just 2 lines of numbers/signs. Here's an example of what you will get when you buy a dump from a vendor:%B426429XXX5504545^DOANE/DARREN^129XXX55901100Everything before the ';' is track1, so:T1:%B426429XXX5504545^DOANE/DARREN^110 00T2: 426429XXX559011002. PlasticPlastic refers to the fake cards that many plastic vendors make to match your dump, meaning they will emboss your dump's numbers as well as the desired name you want onto a blank (not-embossed card).
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You'd be surprised at the quality of plastics, most cashiers can't differentiate a fake from a real one (unless you have really low quality plastic or the cashier is deep into this).3. 101/201 dumpsWhat is the difference between 101 and 201 dumps?
Well it's very simple: 101 is swipe only and 201 is with chip.Now you're going to ask: But how am I going to pass a 201 chipped card without knowing the pin? Well there are places for that, especially POS machines that swipe 201's (meaning they dont insert them). You will have to find spots on your own.Alright, now that we've learned the different terms I will use throughout the guide, here starts the interesting stuff.There are a lot of ways to do instore carding but basically it comes out to this:- Hitting it random.- Insider carding.Hitting it random: This means you have GOOD quality bank plastic that should include these minimum: good holo, UV marks, tipping, matching numbers. Where i'm located sig stripes don't matter because people are a bit late on this. You will be going into any store and hitting it.Insider Carding: This is the safest way to go.
You will need a connection working inside a store who will let you pass cards. So matching plastic is not a must here and usually you can get away with alot and not look suspicious at all.
I suggest you do this to get your funds up to buy machinery for random hitting (or affording strikers).POS Types and why you should read this.There are many POS systems and alot of them are different one from eachother. You will need to know the ones that are easy to swipe and the ones that are slightly harder.Some POS systems will ask to enter the 4 last digits of the card number, so matching numbers is a must for these. Even with an insider, he must enter the matching numbers or else payment won't go through (you can write them on a piece of paper and let him enter those digits dough).Other POS' will ask to enter the cvv2 (3 security digits on the back or 4 for Amex) before even swipping the card.
Keep in mind that dumps bought on the internet don't contain the cvv because it is encrypted in Track2 and very hard to decrypt (different algorithm for every bank). So if you want cvv2 matching, you will need to skim the dumps and check yourself and note them. Usually big stores have this, for example: The Brick, Future Shop, Best Buy etc.There also are POS systems that won't let you insert 201 (chipped) cards. These POS's are good to keep in your book because sometimes, the bins or country you want will be out of 101s and youll get stuck with 201s and you can hit them with these POS's. So they swipe the chipped card, no inserting nor pin required. A good example is Wal-Mart or Blockbuster, only the ones who have a black pad as a POS with a screen for signature capturing (they have an insert slot but they don't use it).How to get dumps?Getting dumps isn't really.that. hard.
There are 3 ways to get dumps:1. Hacking: Pretty simple, you hack POS systems for dumps with either malware or logging system. This is for advanced hackers because you will have to code the malware and test it on a POS you will buy yourself.
Not experienced in this, can't tell you much.2. Skimming: There is online and offline skimming. You can use pagers and mini-readers too. It would be wiser to invest a bit more and get d+p with an offline.3. Buying: Many vendors sell dumps online, but you will need to find good forums (a forum with russians is always good). Don't trust people who post ads on google (google their e-mail or ad), use escrow when possible on forums. Stay safe, don't get ripped, use LR to buy 2 test dumps.
If the guy says 10 minimum then make sure he is legit before doing a transaction (and good vendors usually accept escrow and sell test dumps).Bin Selection:Many people have fuzzy perceptions about BINs. Bins are the first 6 digits of any dump. It represents the financial institution it is from as well as the location of this specific branch and the type of card the dump is.Usually, people have binlists they personally craft (you should too) to find the best ones. Special bins and hard to find bins are sought after because they usually have special characteristics like these:- They die slower, so when a base is almost dead, these are still approved.- They are not region-locked.- They have high limits- etc.There are 2 ways of buying dumps using bins:1.
Selective Bins:Meaning you will ask dump sellers for specific bins that you are after and buy them. One major flaw I have discovered (where I live) is that when I buy 10 pieces of the same BIN and use 3-4, the rest of them all become HOLD-CALL. I don't really know when that seems to happen, but maybe it's because they disable that bin in your area or something.2.
Random Bins:Usually not recommended because vendors give you the shittiest bins. But when you're buying big ammounts, it's good to mix it up, you find new bins that are good for you.What to do with dumps? Equipment needed?After you have your dumps, you can encode them on bank quality plastics to use them.You will use an MSR encoder (reader/writer) to encode the tracks 1 & 2 (3 is never used on a cc) on the card.
Don't ask me how to use it, when you will open the box you will know how to use it. I'm serious, retarded people can figure it out.Ok, about MSRs too: THEY ARE ALL THE SAME, EVEN THE CHINESE ONES. If they work and you didn't get scammed, then any model is good.
I myself have owned 206, 905 and the 605 and I use the 605 all the time despite how popular the old 206 is.Other equipment that is good investment are these:Embosser + Tipper Set: This is a worthwhile investment because non-embossed blank plastics cost 10-15$ in bulk and embossed are up to 40$ a piece if individually bought. They are very easy to operate, don't worry. Don't need to be a genius to use them.Card Printer + Holos: This is for usually for people who have a big operation or want to sell blanks/embossed plastics. I have never owned one because it's too much machinery and it's very expensive (2.5 grans upwards if you want a decent one).